Volume 15, Number 25
April 21, 2009



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Hakuna Matata

özlem erdem Imagine…

Picture yourself walking around at a really nice, historical place surrounded by a beautiful beach. As you stroll along, admiring the setting, you come face-to-face with a long wire entanglement, a chasm, a "ghost" town within a small city, and you are strictly forbidden to enter. What I am telling you is not a crazy tale; this is a real experience I recently had.

There is a place like this in Northern Cyprus in a city called Famagusta, (Gazimagusa in Turkish), which is referred to as Varosha or Kapalı Maraş: "Ghost City." In August 1974 when the famous Ayşe went there on holiday, the area became the most popular part of Gazimagusa. What I mean by popular is that it didn't just have good cafés and bars that people went to; it became one of the richest areas, not only in the Mediterranean Region, but also in the world. There are many myths surrounding the place, like how wine would pour from the taps in the ultra luxurious hotels. Famous Hollywood actors and actresses, including Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor, bought houses in Maras. There were luxurious car galleries for Subaru and Alfa Romeo, and in 1974, these cars hadn't even been introduced in Turkey yet. The place was like today's Las Vegas with lots of deluxe casinos and hotels. Apparently, when the Golden Sands hotel was constructed, desert sand was brought from Egypt. As well, it is said that the British Royalty had completely reserved the Hotel until the year 2015.

Today it feels as if time has stopped, like it is a movie set from the 1970s. The inhabitants abandoned the place so fast, it is said, that their breakfast tables are still set and their books are still open on tables. I photographed a filled suitcase in one of the windows. I know that taking photos is forbidden, even for journalists, but I couldn't help it. I wish I had the chance to enter the place. It looks like an urban jungle now. The buildings and the big Maras Ikon Church stand, abandoned and still after 35 years.

Kapalı Maraş is under the control of the Turkish Army, is completely deserted and left to disintegrate. This is a place where you can see both wealth and poverty at the same time, at the same place. This is a place where you think that the peace in the world is impossible. But, whatever!

Let's just all imagine people living life in peace…

Özlem Erdem (IE/IV)
oerdem@ug.bilkent.edu.tr

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