THE FAIRYTALE CITY: PRAGUE
BY NURSEDA DEMİR (POLS/II)
We all know the reputations of Paris and Venice, because they are, for some people, the most romantic and beautiful cities in the world. If you're one of those people, your ideas just might change after seeing the dream city of Prague. I had no idea how spectacular it was until I went there.
The end of World War I resulted in the creation of Czechoslovakia, with Prague as its capital and Prague Castle as the seat of the new country's president. Scarcely two decades later, in 1947, the world was divided into two by the Cold War, with eastern Europe belonging to the "Eastern Bloc" created by the Soviet Union. Czechoslovakia, which included both Slovakia and the Czech Republic, was part of that bloc. Following the collapse of the Eastern Bloc in the final decades of the 20th century, Czechoslovakia was divided into two countries in 1993.
Today, Prague is the capital and biggest city of the Czech Republic, and the fourteenth largest city in the European Union. It is also home to many historic sites, landmark buildings and cultural attractions such as museums, galleries and theaters. (The Estates Theater hosted the premieres of Mozart's "Don Giovanni" -- one of my favorite operas, by the way -- and "La Clemenza di Tito.") Since 1992, the historic center of Prague has been included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage Sites.
Prague suffered less damage during World War II than other cities in the region, and owing to that, most historic buildings have stayed in their original form. The city has untouched and magnificent examples of architecture in many styles, including Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Art Nouveau and Cubist.
On my first day in Prague (where I went on a tour), the weather was amazing, and very suitable for walking around the city. I went to Hradcany Castle, St. Vitus Cathedral, the Charles Bridge, the Old Town Hall, the National Theater, the Astronomical Clock and the area around the house of Franz Kafka, one of the most influential authors of the 20th century. For me, the most memorable of these sites were the cathedral, the clock and the bridge.
The mesmerizing Charles Bridge, which spans the Vltava River, is protected by three towers. The one on the Old Town side of the city is, to me, one of the most astonishing Gothic- and Baroque-style buildings in the world. As you cross the bridge, you'll see numerous artists there who do portraits in charcoal for tourists. (I didn't have my portrait done, but I certainly will if I ever go to Prague again.)
St. Vitus Cathedral is another brilliant example of Gothic architecture, besides being the biggest church in the country. In the cathedral, you can see the 20th-century stained glass window designed by graphic artist and painter Alfons Mucha.
The Prague Astronomical Clock also dates from medieval times and is the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world. Every hour, figures of the twelve apostles move past a window above the clock, and four animated figures beside the clock are set in motion. The first is Vanity, represented by a figure admiring himself in a mirror; the second one, holding a bag of gold, represents greed; the third figure is Death, in the form of a skeleton; and the fourth is the Turk, who enjoys the pleasures of life. The clock also shows the position of the sun and the moon, along with other astronomical details. It's definitely something you ought to see.
On the evening of my first day in Prague, I took a boat trip on the Vltava River, which included an open buffet and drinks and gave a beautiful view of the city, which is very well lit at night.
The next day started with a tour to Karlovy Vary. I found this little city to be the cutest, most magical place I had seen on my trip to that point. It looks like a painting, and once there, you feel like you've stepped inside the picture, especially if the weather is nice. Karlovy Vary means "Carlsbad," and the town is a spa, very famous for its hot springs, which are said to have healing qualities. You can taste the water there if you want to. I didn't drink very much, because from what I heard, if you drink too much you might get a tummy ache.
The town is also known for the Karlovy Vary International Film Festival, and in addition has been used as the location for a number of film shoots, including "Last Holiday" and the James Bond movie "Casino Royale," both of which feature the Grandhotel Pupp. A very famous hotel and café, Pupp is the place for you if you want to take a break and have something to drink along with some amazing cake. I also toured the inside of the hotel.
According to our tour guide, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk came to Karlovy Vary to benefit from the hot springs. In 1918, he stayed in the Carlsbad Plaza, which has been restored. A plaque on the outer wall of the building commemorates his visit and notes that "Atatürk established the Republic of Turkey." Another plaque on the same wall indicates that Sigmund Freud also visited here. In addition, the town has houses that belonged to Mozart and Goethe. Clearly, this place was very popular with members of the European aristocracy and high society.
That evening, I went to a "Middle Ages Night." You go to a medieval-looking building, and when you're inside, you feel exactly like a king or queen. The tables, chairs, food and even the waiters' costumes look as if they're from the Middle Ages. You can eat amazing dishes (including duck) served with wonderful wines. They even play medieval music and perform dances during dinner.
I left this dream city with great memories. I could certainly live there for the rest of my life without any complaints. At any rate, if you want to live in a fairytale for at least a couple of days, you should definitely go to Prague. If you do, I bet you'll want to go again and again.